A project I completed many years ago, a healthy Ford small block V8 installed into a a 1989 Volvo 740. I enjoyed many good years and miles driving this car to shows and event, but life and a few mechanical issues got in the way. With a leaking rad and other priorities the Volvord was parked and has been sitting since 2012. This is the year to get it back on the road, new custom aluminum radiator is installed, updated and rebuilt carb installed, pre-startup oil change, engine check over complete.
The small block Ford jumps back to life after over 8 years of sitting and collecting dust and dirt.
Next checking the rest of the car, suspension, brakes, etc. Then the long process of bringing the shine back to the aluminum and paint.
For more info on the Volvord and the conversion www.Volvord.com
Camping is spending lots of time outside, exploring, hiking, cooking, relaxing so I know the first question is “Why?” . There are times when we have hook-ups and in the evening we enjoy a little TV later in the evening, I am also a huge F1 fan and on the rare occasion I am able to watch the race.
We all know how awkward and uncomfortable propping a pillow up against the wall is, and those blind cord anchors can be a real pain in the back. Finally I must confess the real reason is the “cool Factor”, this mod is just so cool.
Parts list:
2 – 12V DC 12 in. Stroke 270 lb Linear Actuator $85 ea http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12v-dc-12-in-stroke-270-lb-linear-actuator/A-p8507840e
4 – Linear Actuator Mounting Bracket $27 ea http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/110-lb-linear-actuator-mounting-bracket/A-p8272650e
12V DC 2-Button Handheld Wireless Remote Control $50 http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/12v-dc-2-button-handheld-wireless-remote-control/A-p8619066e
1/2″ Plywood (I used baltic birch)
6 – self closing kitchen door hinges $3.75 pr https://www.homedepot.ca/en/home/p.self-closing-hinge—chrome.1000144266.html
4 – 2”x1/4” NC stainless steel bolts with lock nuts and washers
4 – T nuts http://www.leevalley.com/en/hardware/page.aspx?p=40361&cat=3,43715,43727
Remove or fold back the mattress and measure the area for the lifting platform. I made the lifting platform about 24″ wide by 58” long, this width aligns with the edge of the under bed access hatch. I keep the platform away from the wall by about 1″ to not hit the walls or window shades when it lifts, I used the front dinette cushions as a template for marking the curve.
Once cut I covered the plywood with a sturdy carpet runner, this will protect the mattress and should prevent any wear on the back side. The carpet is secured to the plywood with ½” narrow crown staples. Equally space and Install the 6 hinges along the edge of the lift board, then attach the hinges to the bed deck, aligning the hinges just above the plywood deck seam beside the lift hatch and centered on the 1”x2” support under the plywood deck.
Step 2 Mount the Actuators
The 12” actuators have a total height of about 19” with the mounting brackets, the height of the under bed storage area is only 16” so they have to be mounted at an angle. With the lower bracket located drill ¼” holes through the floor, the holes should be just outside of the frame rails. Use caulking / sealant to prevent water penetration, especially into the wood core of the floor. I used 316 stainless steel nuts & bolts
Temporarily install the upper mounting plate to the actuator and mount the assembly so it angles towards the outside wall. Holding the upper mount against the bed platform mark the location. Using a 1.5″ hole saw drill the hole through the bed platform centred on the mark. Repeat the process and mount the second actuator, each actuator is located about 12″ from each edge, this provides direct support to the lifting platform close to where you will be located on the bed.
Step 3 – Mount the Lift Platform
Place the lift platform on top of the bed platform, align the long straight edge along the plywood seam the is located beside the under bed hatch, centre the hinge mounting holes centred on the 1″x2″ support. Make sure there is at least a 1″ gap between the lift platform and the walls.
Step 4 – Cutting slots for Actuator
Because the actuators are mounted at an angle the top will pivot forward as they extend, this means that slots have to be cut in the bed platform. Cutting the slot is easy, just mark parallel line from the upper mount hole you have already drilled, at about 12″ mark and using the 1.5″ holes saw drill a second hole, then cutting along the marked lines with a jig saw.
Step 5 – Mount the Actuator Upper Mount
With the lift platform in the lowered position and the actuators fully retracted position the actuator with upper mount attached against the lift platform, mark the hole locations. Drill the holes for the mounting bolts, you will need to make the holes larger than the 1/4″ size of the bracket so the “T” nuts can be installed from the top side. “T” nuts are used so the top of the lift board remains flat and smooth, repeat these steps for mounting the second upper mount. attach the actuators to the upper brackets, you will probably need to extend the actuators to tighten the pivot bolt.
Congratulations the mechanical work is done, just the electrical is left.
Step 6 – Electrical Wiring
Using the Hydoworks 12V DC 2-Button Handheld Wireless Remote Control makes wiring a snap. On the control there is a modular plug that can be connected directly to an actuator, splice one of the wiring connectors included with the actuators onto these wires, Make sure you connect the wires correctly or one actuator will extend and the other retract, just look at the modular connector which is a “T” shape and make sure the wires go to the same terminals on the plugs.
The main control box needs a 12 volt supply, on our trailer we have an 12V outlet right beside the hatch so I just tapped into that outlet, your supply may be different and require running 12V supply to the control box.
With the high demand for these vintage trailers they sell quickly, the supply and demand limits the amount of price negotiations a buyer can offer, if you don’t buy it the next person probably will. I often get asked what to look for when buying a used Boler, there are a number of checklists available but my thoughts are “what good is a checklist if you don’t know what you are looking for”. A 30 to 40 year old trailer probably needs some work, you can try to use this information in your negotiations but most sellers probably won’t listen. I suggest the best use of this information is for you to understand what general condition the Boler is in and if you are ready and willing to take on a project that requires the work and expense needed. In other words I want you, the buyer, to know and understand what you are getting into.The following guide describes in detail 10 key areas that are considered major problems and can be quite costly to repair.
When I was building the interior of my 1974 Boler trailer the table leg design became an interesting evolution. I wanted a simple system that was easy to use since the table/bed would be converted back and forth quite often. I initially tried a single metal pedestal used by many RVs but found it to be very unstable, so if one pedestal is not enough I tried adding a second one, which is also common in many RV’s. The two pedestals made the table stable enough, but I found it very difficult to remove and lower the 34”x34” table by myself.
This set-up was not stable enough
Thinking a folding leg system would be the best solution I designed a prototype of the bi-fold legs that are hinged at the top, middle and bottom. To fold the table you simply fold the back legs in half then the front leg, and voilà it should be that simple. This design worked very good, easy to set-up and put down and also very stable. To lock the legs in the upright position spring latches opposite the hinges are used which essentially lock the legs in the center.
The only change I would make to a final version is to use higher quality hinges, the type I used in this prototype had play in the joint because the pin did not fit tightly and the metal leaf was quite thin and bent easily. Stronger, higher quality hinges would correct this.
Another unique feature with the table is that it is mounted the table-top on flat drawer slides that allow the top to easily move back and forth. This allows easier access to the side benches when the table top is moved back towards the rear window, a screw knob under the table locks the slide to prevent movement when needed. This table system worked very well and we used it without any problems for the next summer of camping,
Everyone needs more than one fiberglass trailer. Earlier this year we made the decision to add an Escape 19′ molded fiberglass trailer to use for longer trips and a traveling home away from home, especially as we look forward towards retirement. Since we entered the molded fiberglass trailer world, first with our Boler then with a Casita Freedom Deluxe we soon discovered that in our minds the Escape Trailer Industries product was the Cadillac. In fact many changes, upgrades and design features I thought I had “invented” when I built the Boler were the way Escape made their trailers.
The Escape trailer produced by Escape Trailer Industries in Chilliwack B.C. is another Proud-Canadian success story. Visit the following link to read their story and the models they produce.
(Escape Logo)
The following is a pictorial diary of the building of our custom 19′ “Proud-Canadian” Escape trailer.
Week 1
Fresh out of the mold construction starts.
Looking towards the rear, this will be the queen size bed
Front corner, 2 right windows are in the dinette.
Smaller left window is in the bathroom
Looking up, blocking is for connecting cabinets, lighting, etc.
This strategically placed blocking eliminates any rivets through the shell
Right window is the bathroom, left window is the end of the bed.
Strapping on the wall from left to right: fridge cabinet, wardrobe, bathroom
Week 2
Not a lot has changed on the outside, but a hint of cabinetry is visible on the inside
Looking forward towards the front window, you can see the extra insulation added along with the upper cabinets
The power distribution, converter and battery disconnect switch is located under the front dinette seat
The left opening is for the 6.7 cu/ft fridge, below is a small cupboard
To the right is the wardrobe with a drawer below it, the furnace is at the bottom
The kitchen is taking shape, we custom designed this with wider drawers and aligning the centre stile to be continuous from top to bottom.
Combination bathroom, shower is taking shape
Platform for the queen size bed, not sure what we will do with all the storage.
Week 3
(048)
Considering this was a short 4 day week and lot of work was completed Thermal windows, graphics, storage box awning all installed
(042)
High mount brake lights, opening kitchen window
(043)
front left corner, notice the LED lighting
(044)
Front right corner, these are the dinette seats
(045)
Counter top installed, fridge, and the heads of two hard-working ETI crafts-person’s
(047)
Notice the wider upper cabinet door, normal is 24″ we ordered 36″. Looks great!!!
(046)
Cannot see the toilet but the rest of the plumbing is there, also the furnace is installed under the wardrobe
Week 4
Our finished Escape It is fun trying to spot all the items on our build sheet
Aluminum wheels, storage box, electric jack, …
Our custom table legs, (noticed the dinette cushions on the bed) Love how bright it is inside
The kitchen has more stainless than we have in our kitchen at home
Build Sheet
2-Way Hot Water Tank
2 Burner Stainless Steel Stove & Range hood
Turn Stove 90 degrees
6.7cuft Fridge
Texas Fridge Fan
Additional 12 Volt Interior Outlet beside coaxial Cable
Use 14 gauge wiring for 12V
Additional Set LED Brake Lights ( Vertical )
Additional OPENING Window over sink
Air Conditioner (11,000 BTU) Dometic
Digital Thermostat
Install Heat Strip in A/C
5 Aluminum Rims
Bike Rack Ready
Cabinet Door at end of Bench
1 Additional Drawer Under Wardrobe
Dual 6V Batteries ( 232 amp hrs )
Anderson Hitch
Exterior shower added to interior shower pkg
Exterior 12V Outlet
Extra Insulation & Thermal Windows
LED Interior Light Package
2 LED Exterior Light – Driver & Passenger Side
Additional LED Exterior Lamp above Storage Box
Opening Window in Bathroom
Propane Tanks – Filled
Reinforce 2 Walls 1 & 5
Removable Power Cord
Stainless Steel Sink & Chrome Faucet
Install Stereo w/ wire to BOTH front and rear O/H Cabinets
Stove Cover
Storage Box
Surge Protector
Jack’ TV Antenna with 120V (Standard Location)
Wall Mount Extendable TV Arm (For 15″ – 22″ TVs)
2 – 12V Heat Pads with Spray Foam Insulation
Use BLACK trim on Counters
Foot Flush Toilet
Electric Tongue Jack
Interior Switch for Ceiling Light
36″ Wide Cabinet Door in Rear O/H in Bed area
Custom Kitchen Cabinet – See picture in file
Toilet Shut off Valve
Set of Sand Pads
12V Drop under bed near speaker wire
Battleship Gray graphics
Custom CUSHIONS to have fabric on both sides (no vinyl) no custom fabric,
Install Customer Supplied Table Legs Do not install pedestal
Send me either information on your custom Boler or the modifications you have made either by documenting it in this post or by sending me a links to your custom Boler or modifications. These could be featured articles.
This trailer dolly is built using parts available at Princess Auto (in Canada) and probably Harbour Freight in the US.
Parts list:
2000 lb ATV winch
16 tooth #40 drive gear
54 tooth #40 driven gear
3/4″ keyed drive axle
2- 3/4″ pillow block bearings
Hitch ball
Wheels & hub that key to axle
Keyed hubs for gears
Pivot wheel (make sure it will carry the weight
Metal for frame
The frame is built from some scrap 3″x4″x 3/8″ thick aluminum angle and some 1.5″x3″x1/8″ aluminum channel. The frame is bolted together.
The handle was salvaged from an old lawn mower. Power is provided through the trailer plug directly from the trailer battery, alternatively the alligator clips can be attached to the vehicle battery. Plug connectors allow for the use of a 10/3 extension cord to extend the power cord if needed. A momentary rocker switch on the control activates the trailer brakes, although the planetary gears on the winch motor seem to prevent a runaway situation.
Cable drum on winch needs to be machined down to fit drive gear hub.
Tow ball is quick release and can be changed
Showing both 1 7/8″ and 2″ balls
Trailer wire connector
Electrical adapters for using vehicle battery
Controller, black rocker switch applies trailer brakes
The following images were a request in the comments for picture of the under side and measurements.
One day I thought there has to be an easier way to check the level of the trailer when setting up camp.
We currently use a bubble level on the counter but this requires adjusting one corner or end then running inside the trailer to check the level … running to the appropriate corner to make an adjustment … running back to check.
This sounds more like an exercise program that the simple task of leveling your trailer.
I came up with this unique solution, by using a self-leveling laser level I set it up so it could be swiveled to aim at the side wall and to the back wall inside the trailer.
Mount the bracket and laser to an appropriate location, one that can allow you to see the laser lines on the inside walls by looking through windows close to your leveling points.
Making sure the trailer is leveled using the conventional bubble levels, and then place small reference marks on the walls that aligns with the laser cross-hairs.
Now when I pull into a campsite I turn the laser on and point it at the side wall, immediately I know how many blocks I need under the tires to get close to level.
With the trailer on the leveling blocks I can look through the back window and adjust the side-to-side level, then I swing the laser to aim at the rear wall and looking through the front window I level the trailer back to front.
Small auto levaling laser level with hinger bracket
End of bracket drilled for 1/4″ bolt
Mounted on top of closet
Close up of completed installation
View of laser lines on side wall
View of laser lines on back wall
Target for laser after leveling trailer with bubble level.
From now on all I have to do is center the laser lines for a perfectly level trailer.
The side windows used on Vintage Boler trailers are known as Jalousie Windows. Although they may not look modern they are in fact a very efficient design for two main reasons.
First the window fully opens; sliding windows including the modern radius corner windows only half opens.
Secondly the way the window opens, as a awning, naturally sheds the water so they can be left open and in most cases rain will not get in.
I recently had the opportunity to rebuilt the Jalousie windows in my Boler to replace all the seals and gaskets and to polish all the aluminum since I had taken them out while the Boler was being repainted.
Disassembly of the windows is quite straight forward, the following video demonstrates how to disassemble, please excuse my poor acting.
Much of the trim on my fiberglass Boler trailer is aluminum, the window frames and belly band are extruded aluminum while the door hinges are cast aluminum.
With a little work and some common tools you can turn a dull rough cast hinge into a shiny custom part.
The original mill finish aluminum under a microscope actually has a surface that looks like small hairs, each of these hairs increase the exposed surface area and will oxidize causing the dull finish. When you use a power polisher with the correct cutting compound you actually remove these hairs making the surface glass smooth, this reduces the surface area and the reflection actually comes from the aluminum surface. Because the polished surface has less surface area it is less prone to oxidation and a simple wipe will maintain the surface.
Chemical polishes like Mothers will dissolve or actually convert the oxidation and remove it but the surface area remains the same which means it will oxidize faster and be harder to maintain. Using scotch pads or coarse abrasive pads leaves a uniform textured surface made up of small scratches in the same direction which, although looking good, will not directly reflect light, also the surface area is greater and therefore will oxidize faster.
